"Valle del Colca" & Chivay, Peru

Yep - it's only a 2,000 meter drop from beneath our feet here at Colca Canyon - yes that's roughly a 6,000 ft drop and we're sitting on the edge. We don't have much to worry about though because we came to this point of the canyon from Chivay to watch the magnificent flight of the Condors and we're pretty sure with their monstrous size they'll catch us if we fall. Their wing-span is up to 8 ft wide and you have to be at this point of Colca Canyon by 8:00 am in order to see them take off for the day. They live at the bottom of the canyon where nothing can bother them or their young. By 8:30 in the morning they're airborne and do not return until after dark. It's the only chance of seeing them up close and witnessing their beauty and elegance in flight. I had no idea how beautiful it would be to see them as they circle up from the bottom of this gorgeous canyon (which, at it's deepest point, is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon). The scenery alone brings such a peace that you practically long to be one of them gliding through the air. The Condors truly become Kings of the sky and almost seem to enjoy us observing them as they glide over our heads and cruise within a stones throw away exhibiting a confidence and assurance unseen in other creatures of the sky.



















On the way up the canyon to the "Mirador" or "Cruz del Condor" there are a few small villages in which the culture and people are nothing like what we have seen in our 7 prior months of travels in South America. The villages after Chivay are: Yanque, Achoma, Maca and then the tiny village of Pinchollo. Most the people here work in the fields producing a variety of different crops from wheat, barley, potatoes, onions, alfalfa, and countless other vegetables. Others produce all different types of hand crafts necessary for the region.



















What amazes me most is that the men and women in their 60's and 70's still get up every morning by 5:00 and are on their way to the endless fields of crop and farm by manual labor all day using only hand tools, pics, and shovels. They use their donkeys and bulls to pull what we know as to be the old fashioned plows - I'm talking 50 to 100 years ago. Vehicles are scarce so most the crop is wrapped in blankets and tied around their backs where they haul it for miles back to the villages and markets of each day hoping to sell what was harvested.





All the fields are separated by perfectly built rock walls and to utilize as much land and good soil as possible terraces are built throughout the entire valley climbing as high as possible in which crop will grow. Each level cultivates a different product. From a distance they seem almost as gigantic steps or an enormous amphitheater filling the valley. Most the terraces in the monstrous valley are still in place from the Inca’s construction some 500 plus years ago. It's truly remarkable!













The best way to get to and from each village is by a "colectivo" or bus. You can take a little unique taxi as well, but they cost more. The difference in these "colectivos" from what we're use to everywhere else in S.A. is these are old, well used vehicles such as the one we rode in - a small, old, Volkswagon van. You pay 1 "Sole" (Sol-eh) and wait in the little van until at least seven people are in it. This way it's enough money to be worth the drivers time taking you to the next village. The funny thing though, is that there can basically never be too many people in the little "colectivo." All along the road in route the driver will stop and pick up more people flagging him down. In the picture below we had just started and there were about 10 people including the driver. I had no idea what was in store. By the time we got to the next village we had 17 people smashed into this little, tiny, Volkswagon van. Hilarious!





In Chivay, where we stayed, we loved how inexpensive everything was - especially since we've been on a budget for this whole journey. We ate in the market (nearly every night) at these little restaurant booths that are set up and broken down each night. Our total bill each time was 9 soles (including tip) which equates to less than 3 dollars. Unbelievable! The other fantastic thing for us is that we found a very nice "Hospedaje" to sleep. We had a double bed, hot water, soap, towels, and even cable television with 3 English channels for only $10 per night! Seriously???!!! Awesome! Our room was where the windows are on the 3rd floor overlooking the market and city.







For Jenny's birthday we went on a horse ride with just the two of us and our guide Wilber. He took us all through the valley and around the canyon for spectacular views yet again. One of the neatest parts of the horse tour was when he took us to the ruins of Yanque - the original village some 800 years ago. It was so nuts to be walking through this village and learning how they survived close to 1,000 years ago. Many of the village's tombs have crumbled open as well due to earthquakes in which you can see the bones of entire families.













Chivay and the "Valle del Colca" is probably one of the neater places I've been. Viewing first hand the beauty and tranquility of this culture and landscape while witnessing how much different their way of life is compared to what we know was something I will never forget and will always cherish.