Saturday, December 5, 2009
10:00 am
I receive an email from Diego (Director of Curriculum at our school and new friend) that has several recommendations for the game we’re going to that night. It’s the Division 1 finals for the professional soccer league in Chile and game 1 of the 2 game Championship. The teams are “Catolica” (who we are cheering for) vs “Colo Colo” – both bitter enemies.
He recommends the following:
1) Don’t eat much during the day as the bathrooms will be filthy with human waste and you’ll have to tippy toe through waste covered floors by game time (gets worse as the clock tics). Holes in the ground will be the only form of toilets so #2 is out of the question (no t.p. too).
2) For Jen’s sake, it’s best not to wear shorts due to whistles, comments, gestures etc. from fans on both sides.
3) No valuables: wallets, purses, much money, cameras or anything else someone may want as it will be a full house and lots of muggings and pick-pockets happen at these intense matches. Do bring an ID though. He also says to be on the look out for safety as Colo Colo fans are pretty ruthless (although both teams have the fanatics).
4) Wearing a hat could be good idea for extra protection as many items (including rocks) can be thrown into the crowds from opposing teams.
5) We need to meet 4 hours early to make our way towards the stadium for extra safety before too many “Colo Colo” fans are there waiting and ready to ambush.
The list went on with several other precautions, but he did ensure the police will be 3 x of what it is normally.
2:40
Jenny and I arrive at “Los Leones” metro stop (subway) to meet Diego, his girlfriend Fannie, Cristian, and another guy from Germany. Diego again reinforces what he said about the bathrooms and asks us use the restroom.
3:20
We arrive at our desired bus stop a few blocks away from the subway. A large group of about 40 Catolica “fanatics” are approaching from the opposite direction. They are cheering and chanting different “Catolica” cheers and walking down the middle of the street causing traffic to stop before them. Most are drinking alcohol while others are throwing the empties wherever they please. They arrive to the stop we are waiting at along with about 8-10 other people and completely take over the area shouting and singing at the top of their lungs. They turn the back of the actual bus stop into a large drum and pound on it as hard as they can and scare off many of the bystanders. The others waiting at the stop along with us quickly leave the area and begin walking towards the next stop to get away from any potential danger.
3:30
We arrive at the next stop just in time as we see a bus approaching. We line up single file in preparation to board. The bus nears to 100 yards away and we begin hearing the loud chanting again. It pulls up to stop with the doors stuck open as so many fanatics are smashed into the bus rocking it back and forth, drinking, cheering and singing loudly. It moves on as no one at this stop wants or attempts to ride the bus. As it drives off graffiti paper is thrown out the side windows along with a beer can or two. A few minutes later another bus arrives without the fans and we board.
4:00
We exit the bus at a small park with about 300 or so Catolica fans already gathering. The plan is to wait until the Carabineros de Chile (armored police that look like commandos) clear a path. They will then herd us to the stadium. They do this to try and maintain peace as well as protect both the mass of fans that are gathering for each team. They’re anticipating Colo Colo fans to be hiding outside the stadium waiting to attack Catolica (us) on the parade there. Immediate retaliation is also definite and the Carabineros hope to control it as best they can. The Carabineros look like they are ready for battle. They have armor covering their entire body along with bullet proof vests, helmets, face guards, shields, guns, and night sticks in hand.
Everyone in the park is getting riled up with each passing minute. The strength and energy of the crowd increases as the number continues to grow. Club flags are everywhere representing not only Catolica, but signaling the several different neighborhoods of the Catolica fans. We begin to see allied battles of songs and chants from each neighborhood (fun to see the pride of each neighborhood). After a few songs and chants are finished all the fans of Catolica join in together and the energy explodes! It is quite impressive to observe.
As we near the departure time to parade towards the stadium small groups of people encircle individuals to keep them from the view of the Carabineros. We watch them wrap around their mid sections (like diapers) illegal club banners, flags and club paraphernalia – then pulling their pants up and over to hide. I now see how the fanatics get so many different types of flares, smoke grenades and all sorts of objects and weapons into the games.
5:30
It’s time to march for the stadium. The route has been set up by the Carabineros and they’re ready to proceed with the escort. The crowd (at least 6,000 strong now) begins to move in a massive horde down a side street toward the stadium. Huge drums are pounded in unison as we march creating more excitement and energy. Several more songs are echoed along with the beat of the drums. The adrenaline is definitely flowing. My body is now one giant goose bump and feels stronger than ever before. I am walking with Jenny’s right hand clasped in my left. I have my right arm free for any impulsive needs that arise. I begin to wonder if it’s a game we are heading to or the battle field as every step I take meets the ground simultaneously with each beat of the drum. I presume the majority believe we are actually heading to war.
The Carabineros are spread out sporadically on both sides of us. They have their night sticks in hand ready to club whoever dares to act disorderly or instigate anything. Every 30 seconds another person is belted across the back with a night stick. If they open their mouths to lip off or say anything they receive another blow to the upper arm (police brutality in my opinion for sure). Just keep moving – that’s all they want! Some may need the correction and repercussions given to them, but for the most part the police are abusing their power. They use their nightsticks on anyone they choose – it seems for no apparent reason in some cases. I was quite disturbed with some of the abuse I saw from the Carabineros.
Again, I do realize many of these “fanatics” with no brains for safety or consequences deserve what is handed to them. For example, we are crossing a small intersection in a neighborhood where several Colo Colo fans are hiding about 40 yards down a side street. They jump out and begin cursing at us, making gestures, and to my disbelief begin launching rocks into this mass of Catolica fans – rocks the size of plums and racquet balls. Instantaneously several Catolica fanatics start heaving rocks in return and a few burst from the mass of people and begin running towards them to inflict some sort of torture. They don’t even make it 10 yards outside the parade of people when they’re violently struck by nightsticks. WOW – some of those blows had to hurt – so much for going to the game ‘smarties’ – now you get to go to jail and miss it all together. So in essence – they deserve what is handed them.
The Carabineros are relentless in these types of situations. Anything you do out of the ordinary – you’re going to jail. Adding to the list of ‘smarties’ – as a few of these brainless fanatics are roughly dragged to the armored vehicles (to be hauled off) a whole barrage of stones come flying towards the Carabineros from the Catolica fans just ahead of us! Jenny and I had to literally duck out of the way of one stone with it drilling the guy behind us in the noggin! Man – that had to hurt! Glad it wasn’t Jenny or I though! HA!!
6:15
We enter the gates to a completely packed stadium with all the fans jumping up and down roaring! Only one section is reserved for the Catolica fans as game 1 is in Colo Colo’s stadium. There are about 10,000 fans for Catolica total (now that we arrive) and 30,000 Colo Colo fans. Huge flags are waving all throughout the crowd along with thousands of pom poms. Chants are thundering through the stadium from the home crowd. Streamers are thrown from the stands every few minutes to compensate for their short life creating a beautiful effect as they float slowly through the sky to the field. It’s absolutely the most intense environment I have ever witnessed for a sporting event – let alone almost anything!
The stadium is set up so there is no possible way for the fans of each team to come in contact. Barb wire, tall fences and locked gates block any possible opening or route. What’s hilarious is watching the actions of both teams’ fans towards one another in areas where they can’t physically touch each other. Colo Colo has one section near the walkway of the entrance for Catolica and also the bathrooms for the opposing team. The only thing separating the two fans is a thick fence. For about fifteen minutes Jen and I watched them both dual in chants towards each other, curse, spit and make every type of obscene gesture imaginable until the Carabineros finally broke it up by clubbing some Catolica fans on the back to get them moving. It was actually quite entertaining, but probably more repulsive to see the display of actions occurring before us.
The game ended in a 2-2 tie with some awesome goals! We were definitely alert the entire time as rocks were bombing in from the sections surrounding us. Jenny and I were actually unlucky and VERY lucky at the same time as one of the rocks skimmed the side of her head and then hit me on the right side of my back. If the rock would have actually hit her directly without grazing her it would have been a serious injury. I’m not sure that I would have ever felt so helpless before had it hit her square. I may have gone to KILL one of the Colo Colo fans even though I would have never known who it actually was! I actually wanted to attack them anyway as it came within the VICINITY of my hunny bunny!!
9:45
We begin to exit the stadium after an hour wait. The entire stadium has been completely emptied except for the Catolica fans. We are literally locked in our section unable to exit until the Carabineros deem its safe enough to let us leave and confirm most the Colo Colo fans have left the area. When the gates finally open the impatience of the crowd is at its highest level and the mass of fans begin to push hoping to expedite the exit. The force is so strong it nearly crushes the several hundred in front (including us) against the iron fences. One of the scarier moments I’ve had – again feeling completely helpless.
Exiting the gates we find not only the Carabineros ready to escort us again, but about 50 Carabineros on horses as well. The horses are dressed in matching armor of the Carabineros riding them – Probably the toughest, coolest, most intimidating looking horses I’ve ever seen! I sure wish I had my camera to show you this site. They formed a line for about 50 yards that we walked along – it was amazing! I have never seen such a security force first hand.
10:20
The last thing we encountered was at the metro about a mile away from the stadium. Near the station 50-80 Catolica fans started whistling loudly and running from the station towards us. Diego immediately said “run” and turned to run towards the next station. Apparently a mob from Colo Colo was waiting to attack the Catolica fans arriving at the metro. The whistles were warnings to everyone! It was another blood pumping experience for the night. Within 30-45 seconds the area was covered with Carabineros and the regular Policia.
10:40
Homeward bound… needless to say by the time we got on the metro heading to our apartment we were completely exhausted. It was an 8 hour experience with no food or water to help re-energize.
Despite all we saw along with the enormous smoke grenades, flares and fireworks after the goals and waves of people nearly crushing us a few times – it wasn’t enough to keep me away as I’m going to game 2 of the Championship tomorrow. I’m definitely anticipating it to be much crazier as this is the Final game of the season and the game that determines the Champion. Whatever team loses – the fans will be sure to go after the others!
Aaron's "Company Christmas party" 
